Easter Brunch

Easter, Featured Article, Holidays, Recipes
on March 22, 2008
Shrimp Salad and Popovers
Mark Boughton

Shrimp salad and popovers are a terrific combination that would never have occurred to most people. The recipes appeared in a spring issue of Relish, and one of our editors thought it was the perfect combo for Easter brunch with her in-laws.

“The shrimp could be made ahead,” said the editor, who knows the trouble any cook can run into when more than one dish has to get to the table at the same time. Her plan was to do the salad the day before and put the popovers into the oven when everyone came arrived the next day.

In keeping with her goal to make everything as easy as possible, the rest of the menu was cold soup, a mixed fresh fruit compote and a bottle of wine—very doable, and exactly right for brunch, a meal that straddles breakfast and lunch.

Brunch, if you have never been a member of the English country weekend set, was what people enjoyed after the morning hunt. The word was coined by Guy Beringer, an English writer, and first appeared in a hunting magazine in the late 19th century.

Eating brunch, or “brunching” as it was called, became popular in this country around the 1930 and was the in-thing with the Hollywood crowd. Before airplanes, film stars traveling coast to coast would stop between trains at the Pump Room in Chicago for brunch.

These days, brunch has become the favorite for those of us who like to sleep in on the weekends.

—By Jean Kressy, a food writer in Ashburnham, Mass.